Burda 6969 - Summer Dress

In honor of throw-back Thursday, a blog post dedicated to my stellar skillz in procrastination!

But actually.  If there was a procrastination olympics I'd be a gold medalist.  But that can wait until later.

Anyways, a while back I started AND finished Burda 6969.  I apologize, the link doesn't go to the Simplicity site where I originally found it, it goes to PatternReview.com (but it can also be purchased there, if you so choose).  As a side note, I've been having some problems accessing Simplicity Pattern's new website.  I can't seem to open in it google chrome on either my computer or phone.  It seems weird, but maybe my electronics are finally revolting against me and this is their first step towards taking over the world.  Who knows.

But I digress.  Here is a picture of the pattern:



And here is my version!

I am SO proud of how I got the black dots centered!!

I will say that I am not entirely pleased with how it turned out from the side.  I felt that maybe it was a bit too wide in the waist.  It floats away from my midsection, making me look a tad bit like a cocoon.  The times I have worn this dress, I added a black belt to give it more shape.

The back.  Also very proud of centering the dots here!

LOOK AT HOW MATCHED UP THEY ARE.  If pride is a sin, I apologize, but LORD look at that!

Detail of the front keyhole.

 I do find the keyhole very endearing, but I wish it wasn't quite as low on my bust.  Actually, the whole neckline sits very low.  I have to be very careful with how I lean forward in this dress!  I attempted to shorten the straps, but I also didn't want to unduly restrict my arm movement (gotta be free if If want to retain my status as an honorary pterodactyl).

A zoomed out shot of the front.  Just in case you forgot what it looks like.

Overall, this pattern was not very difficult.  I didn't bother making any adjustments or muslins because I knew it wouldn't be very fitted.  If I were to make it again, I think I would make a muslin to fix the low cut nature and the bubbly-ness of the waist.  But it's great if you want a quick project and are cool with belting it!

The fabric I used is a silk from Hancock Fabrics.  It was not quite opaque enough to retain my modesty and the eyelets were little peep-holes, so I ended up lining the whole dress.  The pattern doesn't call for it, but it was easy to add (just to the front and the back, no need to do the straps).

Until next time!

The Gretchen

Simplicity 1250 Finished at last!

It. Is. Finished.

Well, actually, it's been finished... but I've also been lazy.

My planning post is here and my constructing post is here, both from waay back when, but there's no time in the internet, right?

And, as a reminder, here is the original pattern (which you can also find online here):

Simplicity 1250 Pattern

But putting procrastination in the past, I present to you, my 2014 CHRISTMAS DRESS!!! YAAAAAAAAAASSSSSSSSS!!!!!!

The front w/jacket, not too shabby, eh?

Dress w/jacket detail

Dress w/jacket back

Ta-Da!  The front of the dress.

As you can see the peplum is attached to the dress itself, not the jacket.

The Back!

I did wear a petticoat under this dress (but not too floofy!).  I fioud it looked a bit more complete with it and balanced out my top half better.

Dress Bust Detail

The bust is pleated... yeah, that's all you really need to know.

Jacket Front

SO MANY BUTTONS.  I actually did not finish the buttons in time for the Christmas service I was singing at, so I ended up wearing the jacket without any.  I don't think anyone noticed, haha.  But I did go back since I had already bought all of them, and put every stinkin' shiny gold button on.  I love it, but it was a lot of labor (a labor of love?).

Jacket Back

Jacket Detailing

And for funsies, here is my inspiration and my finished product:

McQueen lookin' mean...

...versus fifties flirty fluff!

Mine is pretty tame, haha, but I'm also pretty proud of it!

Anyways, on to the nitty gritty (or what I can remember of it).  I covered most of this in my fitting/cutting out post, but there was at least one thing I wanted to add.  Match up the plaid on the sides.  Do it.  Not what I did (I forgot?).  I was very naughty.  Do as I say, not as I do, right?

As an overall review of the pattern, I really do love how it turned out.  However, I recollect that it was quite a bit of work and kind of fussy (BUTTONS, button loops, bias facings, boning, plaid - although the plaid mayy have been my fault...).  I cannot say I recommend the pattern for a beginning sewer, but maybe an average/mid skilled sewer who won't mind a little extra fiddley-ness.  And someone with a bit of time; it's definitely no walk-away dress!

Well, that's all I can think to say about it, but if you have any questions, feel free to ask!

Until next time,

-The Gretchen

Fall Vogue 2015 Top Picks

Ah! Fall is in the air!

Wait! In July, you say?

Well, according to Vogue Patterns autumn is just around the corner!

In case you didn't know, Vogue just came out with their new line of fall patterns.  There are a couple things I may never make, but I thought I'd give my two cents on the highlights of the group.

Firstly, new vintage!  Yay!! I adore vintage patterns and Vogue's newest releases will most likely be finding their way into my collection.

Here is Vogue pattern V9127:

Vogue Pattern V9127

It seems to be 1940's (ish?) and it might not be my all time favorite vintage silhouette, but look at that detailing:

How?  Just, how?

I'd just buy the pattern to figure out how one recreates that arrow-like stitching.  And is that a pocket on the lapel?  And how does that belt-thing work?  It's a pattern chock-full of mysteries!

An even better question, what the heck would I use a pocket there for?

My only beef with it is it doesn't seem to fix the model in the back.  Take a look for yourself:

Something seems a bit off...

Maybe it's just me, but if I were to make this pattern, I'd like it to be more closely fitted and less wrinkly in the back.  I think it would give it a cleaner look and allow for the eye to have complete focus on the beautiful tailoring.

  

It also has a short-sleeved option (minus the belt of mystery):

But I like the other vintage dress even more, Vogue pattern V9126:

Vogue Pattern V9126

 I'm not sure if it's the pattern itself or the styling of the pattern that I'm in love with.  Very glamorous, and the model is incredibly (and maybe intentionally) similar to Dita Von Teese!

Up Close - look at her perfect make up!

Leopard Print Love!!

Imagine going to a cocktail party dressed like that!  You'd surely be the talk of the town (and for all the right reasons!).  

Although it does remind me an awful lot of this Simplicity pattern 1777:

But shhhh, we'll just keep that between us and Vogue...

Other than the vintage patterns, I have to say that the only other pattern I had a hankering for was Vogue pattern V1460:

Vogue Pattern V1460

I love how simple it is, but I do have one concern.  Is it just me, or does it seem to strangely emphasize the belly?

I'm sure that model is as thin as can be, but the dress makes it look like she's got something in the oven!  It makes me a bit wary of the pattern, so I'm a bit hesitant to buy it...

Anyways, those are my top three picks for Vogue's 2015 Fall Collection!  Are there any favorites you have?

Until next time,

-The Gretchen

Simplicity 1425 Completed

And just like that, it's finished!  Aside from my goofs, it took very little time and the result is lovely.  Take a look:

I think it's pretty spiffy!

As you may have noticed, I added a bit of overstitching to edges of the cotton.  I had to make a decision between hiding the stitching (which didn't work well with small polka dots) or emphasizing it.  I chose the latter and was so happy with the result, I added some more.  It also helps to keep some of my seams in place; a double win!

Even though this pattern was relatively simple, I still learned a lot.  Firstly, do not use a really hot iron on chiffon.  Or at least the chiffon I used (from JoAnn Fabrics).  It will melt and melted clothing is not cute!  In my defense, I had the iron set on high for the cotton part of the blouse and didn't even think about what havoc it would wreck on the chiffon part.  Fortunately, the little hole it created isn't noticeable (other than to me).  Unfortunately, it is in such a spot that I determined it really isn't worth the effort to completely replace that section.

I also learned, simultaneously in fact, that chiffon is not the easiest material to work with.  It looks lovely, but the fraying (even with zig-zagging and pinking the edges) was quite a challenge.  As was cutting out.  And sewing together.  It was all challenging for me!  I do not think I'll be using chiffon again for anything that is supposed to be tailored or semi-tailored (like a collar) until I've gotten better acquainted with the material, But I'll still use it for draping and gathering.

If I were to make this blouse again, I might use an organza or something else with a bit more body for the collar.  I would also line it, as I mentioned here in my beginning post. My fabric is slightly see-through and the added security would be nice.

Well, until next time.

-The Gretchen

Simplicity 1254 Completed

A finished product, you say? How can this be?  I know; it's insane!  But I have decided to post a few of my projects I made before my blog or I just neglected to blog about.  And now I have evidence that I do get some things done! Ha!  I can't comment too much on what I did with the patterns and how I did it (I never kept track!) but I'll try to include as much information as I can.  Mostly, I hope this gives you a better feel for how some of these patterns look in real life.

Anyways, explanation done, here is Simplicity 1254!  I completed this about three weeks ago and never put anything up (so silly!).  You can find the pattern on the Simplicity website here.  This is the finished garment: 

Simplicity 1254, View B

It made up quite lovely and I'm thrilled with the result.  A few things I recall while making this pattern:

1.  The hips are very wide, so you may want to size them down.

2.  The sleeves are on the shorter side; I didn't hem mine at all and they're still a smidge short.

3.  The hood is much smaller than it looks; it's not really functional but more for show.

4.  The zipper was really easy to put in!

Overall, I'd say it would be smart to make some sort of muslin before to avoid any fitting issues.  But it's a really fun, really easy pattern!  I would highly recommend it for a beginning sewer.  I might go back and check what size I cut everything out, but if you have any specific questions, let me know.

Until next time!

-The Gretchen

Simplicity 1425 Beginning

What? Two posts in as many days?! Yes! It's true, I was quite industrious this weekend!

Because I had to halt construction on my Burda pattern (that post is here) I started yet another project.  This is the pattern (click here to see it on Simplicity's website):

I'll be doing view B with the sheer collar.  I debated doing view A, but I was worried about the chiffon fabric I chose raveling since I can't serge the edges (college problems!).  I absolutely adore the peplum style, but I have nothing of the sort in my wardrobe!  My neighbors gave me some lovely fabric that I've been dying to use for this pattern.

Materials:

As I mentioned before, my neighbor gifted me with fabric that I set aside to make this months ago.  It's a polka-dotted cotton and I'm tempted to say they're swiss dots?  I hesitate to call it that because I've only seen swiss dot on sheer fabric, but I think it goes for solids, too.  Anyways, each dot is a little velvety and gives the fabric an amazing texture.

The swiss dot is in the foreground and chiffon is in the background

For the sheer collar, I purchased some navy chiffon from JoAnn Fabrics; it matches the dots perfectly!

I have not yet bought the buttons, but they'll probably be navy and small (to match the polka dots).

Cutting Out and Fitting:

This pattern was super easy to cut out.  Not too many pieces and not too much fabric required.  I did use pinking shears to cut the edges since I am currently serger-less. It worked really well for both the cotton and chiffon.

Fitting this was interesting (as fitting always is).  In my Christmas dress post (which you can find here), I mentioned that I cut out my Simplicity pattern a size 6 in the bust and a size 10 at the waist.  I thought that this blouse might fit exactly the same, but alas, I was wrong!  I did not make a muslin this time around (naughty naughty!). To be fair, I had no extra material to  make one here in my dorm.  It was extra stressful not knowing for sure how it would fit, but I ended up just going off my gut, the finished measurements on the pattern pieces, and some good ole' internet digging.  

I ended up cutting out a straight size 6, meaning that all measurements were size 6.   According to the pattern, I should be a size 8 in the bust (I'm 31.5").  I checked the finished measurements and for bust size 8, which was 35".  That's 3.5" of ease! I usually like about 2" of ease at my bust, so that's why I decided on size 6, which has a finished bust measurement of 34" (2.5" of ease).

The pattern also says I should be a size 12 at the waist (I'm 26.5").  My spidey-senses tingling, I though I should check those measurements, too.  For size 12, it's 30.5"!  Wow!  I prefer 1 or 2 inches at the waist, but not 4.  I am, however, beginning to see a trend in Simplicity's sizing, which will definitely help for subsequent projects.  Size 6 at the waist is 27.5" for the finished measurement, which sounded a little small but I did some digging online and I came across the Llaydbird blog (I highly recommend visiting here). She mentions there being extra space in the waist of the pattern.  That made me feel better about making the waist such a tiny size, and so I stuck with the size 6 and cut it out.

Beginning Construction:

This was really straightforward.  I haven't come across any surprises yet and it seems perfect for both the discerning fashionista and beginning sewer.  The only thing I added was zig-zagging to the edges of chiffon.  I had already pinked them, but I wanted to be extra safe!  Here's my progress:

I don't have much more to go, but I have to wait until I get some bias tape to finish it off. I'm loving the results so far and it fits wonderfully (even the waist!).  The only thing I wish I had done was line it, although it doesn't say to in the directions.  My cotton is a wee bit see-through.  I think it'll be fine, you can't see my undergarments so it's not too scandalous.

Let me know if you have any questions!

Until next time,

-The Gretchen

Simplicity 1250 - Fitting and Cutting Out

Alas! I have begun my Christmas dress! And a month before Christmas; I'm rather impressed with myself.  If you're just dropping in now, I'm making Simplicity pattern 1250 for my Christmas dress (fingers crossed!).  You can find my initial planning post here.  You can also find my finished product here!

The pattern (I'm doing view A)

Firstly: my fabric choices! I did stick to the originally planned plaid with black lace.  Upon visiting both Hancock and Joann's I realized my selection was slim and I had take what I could get.  There was literally next to no taffeta-esque tartan in stock at my stores this year!  It's a little weird, especially considering that there has been an abundance in previous years.  And it was slim pickings online, too!  Ah well, I'm pretty pleased with my choice anyways.

The plaid with lace and gold buttons

 The  classic red tartan with green is growing on me.  Plus it's got some shiny gold to sparkle it up!

After bringing my fabric home, I was very well behaved and did make a muslin for the top bustier area.  I would highly recommend doing it due to the close fitting nature of the bustier, even if you normally avoid making muslins (as I do) .  I ended up doing two, one in muslin and one in a red taffeta that's a similar to the plaid I'll be using.

Measuring/Ease
My bust measurement is 32" and my waist is 26".  I'm in between the sizes specified on this pattern, with a size 10 at the bust being 32.5" and a size 12 at the waist being 26.5" (pretty close).  Normally Simplicity patterns give quite a bit of ease, but this pattern surprised me. On the pattern tissue it says that there is 2" of ease for the bust (34.5" finished measurement for size 10) and 1" of ease at the waist (27.5" finished measurement for size 12).  Much less ease than expected, but it sounded good to me!

Muslin I
The initial muslin was... interesting.  I decided that 2" of ease on the bust might be a little too much for me.  I am a bit flat chested so excessive ease doesn't always serve a purpose on my figure.  Plus, with the gown being strapless I thought making it as tight as was comfortable would avoid some awkward flashings in the future.  Therefore, I cut out the bust at a size 8, giving it 1" of ease.  I kept the waist at a size 12 since the 1" of ease there seemed reasonable.

This was the result:

AH!!! SO LOOSE!!! NO!!!! NO NO NO!!

As you may have surmised, the fit was not exactly what I intended.  You may not be able to tell from the picture, but there turned out to be a lot of ease!  It bubbled all around my dress form in sack-like manner, despite the form being slightly larger than me!  Even with the boning that it will eventually have, I had my doubts about this dress staying up let alone portraying a flattering, retro silhouette.  Back to the cutting board I went!

Muslin II/Taffeta

My second muslin/mockup, made of taffeta instead of cotton, went much better.  I reduced the bust to a size 6 (giving me 1/2" of ease) and the waist to a size 10 (giving me 1" of ease).





 The result:

 

Much better!! It fits on the dress form (and me) quite nicely, with plenty of room for a zipper and boning.  It's much closer to the silhouette I imagined; no more sack!

In summary, I reduced the bust by two sizes (from size 10 to size 6) and the waist by one (from size 12 to size 10) to achieve my desired fit.  After my too-long foray into fitting, I finished cutting the dress out and I've started piecing it together.  It's turning out lovely and I can't wait to share my progress in my next post!

Until next time!

-The Gretchen

Christmas, Sewing, McQueen (whoot whoot!)

So yeah... Halloween is over and that means...

CHRISTMAS!!

Sort of. Yeah, yeah, I know, Thanksgiving comes before and I shouldn't forget about being grateful for everything I have before I get a bunch of new stuff.  But as far as making a Christmas dress, it's about time to start!!!!!!!

Now, I'm away at college currently (and far from my beloved Pfaff sewing machine, The Thrasher) but that doesn't mean I can't start dreaming (and plotting) this years Christmas dress.  Throughout my childhood, my mother would make me one yearly. While I was learning to sew this past year I made my own! It was extremely satisfying and I can't wait to make another one.

Thankfully (and, I'm sure, purposefully) Simplicity Patterns has started releasing its winter collection and I have absolutely fallen in love with the new pattern #1250 (you can find it here).  Take a look-see below!

Front of the Pattern

Front/Back of Pattern Drawing

Ah! So swoon-worthy! At least the repressed 50's housewife inside of me thinks so.  But seriously, it's pretty darn cute, isn't it?  I love the idea of having a strapless dress that you can secretly hide with a lace jacket - so sneaky! And I love the peplum.  And the full skirt.  And the sweetheart neckline. I just love it all!

I should clarify, I would be making view A.  And I would, of course, make it differently than the pattern cover, although it does look pretty cute in red and black.  But I think I'd want to switch it up on the bottom with the skirt fabric with some Alexander McQueen inspired plaid! Whoot whoot!

So Fierce. Very Fashion. Much McQueen.

Yeah, yeah, yeah, I know, so 2006, but c'mon, they're fun! And it's Christmas! And plaid! It's plaid! Plus the idea of lace and plaid have been forever linked in my mind since seeing these. But I might not completely steal McQueen's ideas, I might switch it up (maybe)!

Perhaps a blue-toned tartan plaid?

I admit, I'm not a huge fan of this plaid in particular (from Fabric.com) it's nice enough but the print is a bit small for such a large skirt.  However I do like the idea of taking the expected plaid and mixing it up with color! And then I could choose to do the lace in black, or the contrasting green, or even the gold (although that might clash with my own golden locks - ha!)

 Or I could stick with the ole' classic red and green Christmas plaid.

I'm less enthusiastic about the idea of this (also from Fabric.com), although it will be easier to find a size print that I like.  And there's nothing wrong with it; it is a classic!  

But maybe a brocade would be fun?  I haven't found a brocade I like yet, though, so the search continues.  In the end, it'll be whatever does (or doesn't) speak to me at the fabric store!

Until next time!

-The Gretchen